GORILLA TREKKING
EXPLAINED - WHERE AND HOW
THE STORY OF MOUNTAIN GORILLAS IS ONE OF THE MOST HEART-BREAKING AND UPLIFTING AT THE SAME TIME, FROM NEAR EXTINCTION AND A POPULATION OF ONLY 250, THEY HAVE NOW RECOVERED TO JUST OVER 1000 ANIMALS. IT IS THE ONLY WILD APE WHOSE POPULATION IS INCREASING.
1000 GORILLAS REMAIN IN BWINDI FOREST
AND THE VIRUNGA MASSIF
That population of 1000 animals is split between only two locations; Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in southwest Uganda and the Virunga Massif which is split over three countries in a contiguous chain of national parks; Volcanoes NP in Rwanda, Virunga NP in the DR Congo and Mgahinga NP in Uganda.
From the early 1900’s the population crashed due to trophy hunting and collection of live specimens for Western Museums and Zoos. In the 1970’s and 80’s habitat loss and rampant poaching brought the species to the edge of existence. Dian Fossey’s research and publicity began to change perceptions of them as monsters to gentle and loving family orientated creatures. After Fossey’s beloved silverback named ‘Digit’ was slaughtered, among many others, their population reached that 250 mark. Fossey herself was murdered and the region was the centre of catastrophic conflict; civil wars and the Rwandan Genocide – many feared they would become extinct. However park rangers from the three countries collaborated and managed to protect that small population.
Government efforts to promote ecotourism, habituation and community participation have turned gorillas into massive economic drivers. Tourism revenue is legally fed back into surrounding communities and turned poachers into protectors.
The Reality Today: This recovery requires constant vigilance. Because their habitat is entirely surrounded by dense human cultivation, mountain gorillas have nowhere else to expand. They face ongoing threats from traps set for other bushmeat, climate change altering food sources like bamboo, and vulnerability to human respiratory diseases (including COVID-19 and Ebola).
THE HOUR YOU SPEND WITH THE GORILLAS IS ONE OF THE BEST WILDLIFE EXPERIENCES AVAILABLE, WHEN YOU WISH TIME WOULD SLOW DOWN.
Bwindi is approximately 330sq kilometres in size and is reached by flight from Entebbe or as part of a greater safari often done by road. The roads around the park are rough and require slow passage– there aren’t any that go over or through the park and thus the park is split into four viewing regions; Buhoma, Nkuringo, Rushaga and Ruhija, and each has its own visitor centre from where clients will depart.
When we plan your trip, we will book gorilla permits for one of those regions, and you would stay in one of the lodges that is near to that region.
Volcanoes NP in Rwanda is accessed by road from Kigali and is around 3,5 hours drive [or an expensive helicopter trip] - there is only one park HQ at Volcanoes and all clients meet there before driving out to your trailhead. If you are short on time, Rwanda can offer a slightly quicker turnaround, after a morning hike you can return to Kigali and fly out that night.
On the morning of your hike, all hikers gather at their visitor centre with their lodge or overland guide to check-in, and from there you are split into groups based on physical ability, and a few other factors like if you have been on a hike already. Each group is assigned a primary gorilla guide, you can also hire the services of a porter, to assist you with your bags and to pull you and push you through any tricky areas. It is wonderful just to support the local porters and let them understand that protecting gorillas is good for your income! Most often you still drive to your trailhead, the closest point at which your gorilla family was last seen the day before.
Trackers and park rangers go out early to locate each of the families and eventually guide you in via radio contact with your gorilla guide. Before you approach the gorillas, you leave all your unnecessary items like walking sticks and backpacks behind. By this time your excitement levels are high and adrenalin is pumping.
The best time to do a gorilla hike is in the dry season, June to September and December to February, but you can hike throughout the year. In Rwanda permits cost $1500 per person and in Uganda its $800 per person and that gets you one hour with the gorillas. Your hiking time is separate to that, and who knows, those vary from 30 minutes up to five hours. My most recent hike in Uganda was pretty easy, the well-used path in the village was super slippery and crossing the streams on slippery, hand made log bridges was also a concern but physically the hike was not demanding. My other hikes in Uganda have been up to 90 minutes to get to the gorilla family we were assigned.
Minimum age for hiking is 15 years old and you must be healthy [no flu or cold symptoms]. Most upmarket lodges will supply some essential items, like walking sticks, backpacks, gators and face-masks - the cheaper lodges can arrange those for around $10 per person. You do need hiking shoes that can endure some wet and muddy conditions.
